Kawasaki 1100

ZX-11 (US), 90-01 | ZZr1100, 90-00-all

Classic, simple and reliable, the ZX-11 / ZZR1100 is one of the nicest and funnest bikes to ride - kind of like a full-race Lincoln Continental.
It's relatively mild state of tune just begs for a bit of "tweaking".

The Carb Recal Kit and the Ignition Advance Rotor perk up the low-end and midrange power and response for quicker warm-up and more response. The Factory Carb Recal Kit will, when properly tuned, absolutely eliminate the 4k-4.5k flat spot at cruise.
Full throttle acceleration is very significantly improved - making the Factory Pro kit the best choice for drag racing AND non track applications. Sounds crazy - but, if the carb is tuned to deliver fuel at proper rates at full throttle, part throttle cruise and all rpms and throttle positions in between, the engine will simply produce more power under touring use, drag use and in town use. It takes the Factory Pro Low Inertia EC997 Eddy Current Dynamometer (really - it does) to accomplish this.

Expect fuel consumption to increase a bit, but certainly not 10%! I'd expect 3%-5% - unless after the kit install, you start enjoying full throttle acceleration more!
The Transmission Detent Spring Kit really puts "snick" into the shifting. It's kind of like a Chinese wooden cube assembly technique, but, YES, you can remove the shift mechanism cover and shift arm plate without removing the engine from the frame!!

year models | Factory Pro Series product number
90-90.5 (lg air inlet - w/ stock~#155-#160mj) | K11 Factory Series product
90.5-92 (small air inlet w/ stock #140mj) | K19 Factory Series product
93-01 (lg air inlet - w/ stock~#155-#160mj) | K33 Factory Series product
Note: All of the bikes from 90-2000 use the same carb recal needle in the kits. Only the main jets supplied in the kits are different. You can interchange kits for all years with simple swapping of main jets!

Factory Products Available

Item | Description | Price
Ti ProKit Carb Recal Kit | The Ti ProKit with Titanium needles. The toughest material used in a carburetor. These needles will still be around in the millennium after next. Keihin, unlike Mikuni, uses a steel needle jet. Ti + Steel, in this application are unbeatable for long life.
The kit, when properly tuned, adds more / midrange and if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling!
Suggest cleanable BMC air filter system (avail. direct from Factory) for more power - click here/there for more information.
$149.95
93-01 | CRB-K33-1.1-TI
90.5-92 | CRB-K19-1.1-TI
90-90.5 | CRB-K11-1.1-TI
Config 10 Carb Recalibration Kit CRB-K11-1.0 (90-90.5) CRB-K19-1.0 (90.5-92) CRB-K33-1.0 (93-01) | Standard "drop-in" style The C-10 kit, when properly tuned, adds more / midrange and if the proper main jet is selected, more top-end power. Easy to install and tune - no slide drilling! The most popular kit on the Internet. Suggest cleanable BMC air filter system (avail. direct from Factory) for more power - click here/there for more information. | $129.95
Config 30 carb kit | Not available for ZX-11 because it is a pressurized air intake system. | .
K&N air filter system | Suggest cleanable K&N air filter system (avail. direct from Factory) for more power - click here / there for more information. | as quoted
Ignition Advance Rotor RTR-KAW-11 (4 degree) | Improve throttle response and increase part throttle power. This simple, bolt-on advance kit advances the timing 4 degrees. With stock engines with stock compression ratios, there is a slight power increase in different areas. The biggest improvement is in part throttle power - improving corner exit speeds. Improved in-town drivability and quicker warm-up.
Note: If the carburetion is too lean at cruise already, the extra advance may make the cruise even a bit leaner (around the equivalent of ~.5x-1x turns of the fuel screw).
Probably +4 is a little bit too much advance for drag racing or top speed competition.
Suggest using the patented Adjustable RTR-ADJ-KAW-11 for 1 degree increment tuneability.
$54.95 USD
ADJ Ignition Advance Kit RTR-ADJ-KAW-011 | Improve throttle response and increase part throttle power. A true work of art! Factory Pro patented unit is adjustable +/- 7 degrees in absolute 1 degree increments. Features NO extra exposed screws, that require loctite like Muzzy / RPM / Dynojet units.
Sold through Factory Pro Dealers only - Not sold through dynojet dealers.
Must have for turbo engines!
$79.95 USD
SHFT-PRO-KAW-11 Trans Detent Kit | Make your ZX/ZZr shift quicker with fewer missed shifts. Make shifting MUCH quicker and virtually eliminate missed shifts. Like a Chinese wooden cube puzzle to install - Not for the impatient installer but, as we know, patience is a virtue. Make the transmission "snick" into gears. Works well on track and street. Slightly firmer lever action.
Big improvement in shift precision!
INSTALL NOTES: for those who hate puzzles and Concours

Mark:

I got the shift kit installed, and it works like a charm.

Bob Reynolds
ZX11

~$89.95 USD
TL-float height gauge | The only way to accurately measure float heights. Works on nearly every carburetor. | ~$45 USD

## True Rear Wheel Horsepower Factory EC997a Eddy Current Dynamometer

Received 01/21/99
To <factory2@ix.netcom.com>
Hi Mark this is Joe Williams. You may not remember me but my 93 ZX11 was the test bike for your jet kit. It was 5 mph faster that all of the other ZX11s at Sears Point on a 95 degree day,
10.70 at 131 mph on my third pass. that was in 1993. The bike still runs great with your jet kit + k&n + SPLIT FIRE plugs + MUZZYS EXHAUST + Sealing up the air box + A lighter SPROCKET SPECIALIST SPROCKET + RACE FUEL . Let me know if you have a front brake rotor kit for the 93 ZX11 C4 model.
Joe Williams
XXX-XXX-7711 or e mail me at the same e mail address that you see now. It's my wife's computer.

Received 12/14/99 from Blagrove, Swindon, England,
Martin M. wrote:
Hi
First of all let me say thanks for the help and quality of product that you supplied me with when jetting my zzr1100 c1. the people at the dyno didn't seem to think much of your product but changed there mind when my bike pumped out 139 bhp (stock bike with a micron race exhaust ,your jet kit and ignition advancer).
Anyway I have a friend with another zzr1100 c1 and he has done loads of stuff to his bike (1206 barrels and more) but he wanted to fit Keihin 42 CVK on his bike could you advise me whether the carbs would fit off a Honda blackbird or are they completely different ??
or is it easier to get come from a supplier ? and can you get new rubbers for the air box ??
any information would be greatly received
many thanks for you continued help and support

Martin

Fact:
So, what is the ram air intake system good for in hp on the road at high speed? Testing that we did indicated ~8-9hp at 120-130mph or 190-219kph.

Fact:
A turbocharged 1100 with only 7.5psi boost WILL loft the front wheel into the air in third gear on a wet road. Just after that, it will also break traction, get sideways and pitch ex-employees through air, onto the highway and into the unemployment line.

Subject: 2000 ZX11
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:03:20 -0500
From: "Pat Russo" <prusso@microvena.com>
To: "Marc Salvisberg" <factory2@ix.netcom.com>
Hi Marc,
I just finished installing your jet kit and +4 degree advancer in my boat anchor ZX11.
I wanted to let you know it definitely filled in the low spots in the power band and increased drivability.

I am however having trouble understanding the theory behind the recommended twin carb pressure correction lines vs. the stock two into one line.
As I see it, this system is basically a dead ended system with a very small flow characteristic. If that's true, then pressure differences should be felt at the carbs almost equally and instantaneously in which case twin lines wouldn't be needed. Am I off base here?
Thanks, Pat Russo
White Bear Lake, Minnesota.

Reply:

Hi Pat -
As you have reasoned, (I hope you lost no sleep over it - I apologize if you did) there is virtually no difference.
You are right, correct and your reasoning is without reproach. (:-)
The diagram was carried over from most of the other Kawasaki models. You are the first person to mention it!
Glad all else worked well!
Cheers!
Marc

From: Lewis Lefcourt <llefcourt@earthlink.net> 4/14/2001 3:37 PM
Subject: jetting at 5,000 ft
To: general@factorypro.com
Dear Sirs,
Just responding after I finally got my 93 ZX11C running great.
Followed your instructions and it was to rich. But adjusting the fuel screws to 2 turns instead of three made all the difference. With a D&D pipe and K&N filter the bike pulls very hard in all gears at any RPM above 2,000.
Thanks for a great product.
Lew Lefcourt
Reno, NV.
Thank you!
Marc

- Ignition Rotor, indexed, adjustable, new style

Links

- ZX-11 Owners Site http://209.15.53.221

Install Notes Detent Arm Kit ZX-11 (all years) and Concours
Concourse, all years | This kit DOES fit the Concours.... BUT!!!! You MUST remove entire driveshaft to install. Big job.
ZX11 Installation
| Removal
| Pull parts around shift cover.
| Unbolt cover.
| Remove as many screws as you can from the small cover.
| Pull cover outwards, towards you.
| Reach behind cover (blind) and "delatch" the shift shaft from the end of the shift drum.
| Then pull the shaft towards you, into the small cover.
| Rotate and angle cover (with shift shaft pulled into the small cover) and in ONE position only, it will come out. Easily.
| It's a 100% "doable" thing - But - it will only happen if you do all the above. I've had perfectly capable mechanics swear that is was impossible - Usually after they loosened up the engine and installed the kit , w/o calling - but, I don't know of anybody who called and then couldn't do it.......but there's probably somebody...)
YES - it can happen like we said - just check off each step and do it -
Yes - the Kawasaki ZX11 manual is incorrect.
| Reinstall
| To reinstall, put whatever screws wouldn't come out of the cover when it was installed, put shift shaft back into the cover (if you even took it out) - Pull shift shaft back into cover, angle and rotate the assembly and drop it back in.
| Once back in place..... pull cover out, towards you, and now push the shift shaft outwards, towards the motor. Reach around (blind) and wiggle / jog / twiddle with the spring loaded "fingers". You will eventually feel it click into place (then you will be able to push the shift shaft in, fully, towards the engine) and then slide the cover back into its final position.
| If the cover goes on all the way - the shift mechanism is installed properly - otherwise, you wouldn't have been able to push the shift shaft all the way in or install the cover flush to the engine.
| Testing
| Most all Kawasaki's will not shift into second gear without actually running through first - so, you can't upshift and downshift, other than 1st and neutral.